Welcome to Nigeria!

Mohamed handed me his business card towards the end of our flight and said that if I ever needed anything or stopped in Rome to please give him a call. Director of IFAD Africa (IFAD being a donor organization financing agricultural development projects), I had a feeling that I would make use of this offer. I did not realize that I would need him 30 minutes later!

First one off of the plane I was thrilled to be the very first person at the immigration desk. I approached the two immigration officers behind their plastic window with a smile on my face ready to get through quickly, grab my luggage and get to my hotel where I could make up for 2 days of no sleep. "Ahhh Miss Spencer, for how long are you staying in Nigeria?"
"Three weeks"
"And why is that?"
"For work," I responded, figuring that was a normal question and a truthful response.
"Well then Miss Spencer, may I please see your work permit?"
A bit caught off guard, "Oh, I have a business visa".
The officer looked at me with no trace of the smile he had when I first approached him, "So now you are lying to me?"
"What?"
"You told me you were here for work and now you are trying to change what you said and tell me that you are here for business?!"
I am completely dumbfounded and attempt to explain that I must not have understood his question properly; I thought that work and business meant the same thing.
"Do you realize that you are talking to a Nigerian Immigration Officer Miss Spencer?"
He started getting angry and I continued to explain why I was entering (or at least hoping to enter) Nigeria.

Suddenly he called over Idi Amin’s twin separated at birth who brought me to the side and continued to drill me. A bit too close for comfort. Why had I lied about entering? Where was my letter of invitation etc. etc. I had no more answers for him and started imagining what a Nigerian jail cell might look like and/or how much money I was going to have to hand over to get into the country.

Thankfully, Mohamed and his colleagues came through immigration without trouble a bit after and saw me in my little predicament. Actually, by the time they came through we were causing a scene. Long story short they convinced the officer that I was with them and smooth talked me out of the situation. They were all smiles and had the officer laughing by the time we walked away. Thank God for the diplomats you meet when you get to sit in business class. A bit scatter brained and slightly shaken up the three men made sure I got my luggage and found my ride. Welcome to Nigeria!

Musa, one of the PrOpCom (my project) drivers was waiting for me with a sign. He led me out to the car and pointed to a truck with flashing lights and a group of 6 or so guys, a few holding AK 47s and casually said that they would be escorting us. Because I have worked on the project in DC, I knew that because the road from the airport into town isn’t the safest we always hire an armed escort for that drive at night. However, after my first interaction on Nigerian soil with the ever so kind immigration officer, being greeted by my AK-47 armed escorts was a little unnerving.

They followed behind, lights flashing, sirens on for the full 45 minute drive. I felt like I should have been the president. The enormous highways felt strangely deserted, but occasionally groups of young people would run across the street (despite the fact that we were FLYING towards them). Driving into Abuja I recognized the characteristics that have led others to describe it as "an illusion," "an artificial city," "not like Africa," etc. I would describe my drive in and my delirious first impression of Abuja as simply eerie. Sirens a blazing I showed up to my incredibly nice, but nearly empty hotel. Better safe than sorry, but man did I feel silly.
An exciting 3 hour introduction to Nigeria it has already been a very new experience of traveling in Africa.